Ice in WA

So it has been unseasonably cold in WA this year.  For those on the westside of the state, they have been driving around with a foot or more on the ground for some time now, and transportation in the cities was all but shut down until just a few days ago.  While this may have reaped havoc on the urban areas, it sure made some great ice climbing.  Waterfalls all over the state have been climbed, including climbs at Index and Skookam falls, which don't really form up all that often.  

I went out and climbed The Pencil about a week ago.  It was a super good climb.  It is up near Drury Falls in Tumwater Canyon outside of Leavenworth.  The climb was wet and cold, but it felt good to swing some tools.  I would certainly say that the crux of the climb was the three-plus hour approach that it took us to get up to it.  Casey and I cruised the river crossing with no problem in our borrowed aluminum canoe.  It was more the slogging through nipple deep 4 percent snow over a brutal boulder field that made the trip.  It really wasn't all that bad, but let's just say it was a bit frustrating at the time.  The last 100 meters of the approach took us a good 45 minutes.  It was standard slogging in deep snow- dig, dig, stamp it out, move a little bit, do it again.  

Soon after we arrived, a spout of water opened towards the top of the first pitch and proceeded to drench the left side.  We climbed the right side no big deal.  I was super stoked to let Casey put up the rope, as I ended up being pretty worked just following.  We climbed the second pitch with frozen gloves and wearing our puffies.  The final third pitched looked to be quite good, but between the waning daylight and our frigid appendages, we decided to make the trek back down the canyon.  It is a super aesthetic climb for sure.  I would love to go back sometime and finish the last pitch.  The first pitch was great, steeper than I expected and a real rope stretcher.  Highly recommended if you can get on it.

Post Christmas

A happy crew after the Willy Wonka Golden Ticket 

session at Steven's

Things were a blur leading up to Christmas.  After such a late winter, when it finally showed up, I had a tough time leaving it for the mess on the westside.  But, it was good to see family and friends over the holiday.  I made the drive back over to Leavenworth today, after sitting on Snoqualmie pass for an hour while AC work was done.  

It is still snowy around here, rather than the black slush on the side of the road that I left behind, and that is reassuring.  Back up to Steven's tomorrow.  The backside will be opening up for the season tomorrow.  I am super stoked for that, but after getting back there for the super secret session earlier this year, I am worried I might have too high of expectations.  Either way, it will be good to be on the skis.  

Cionek making the first turns of the season

 in Tunnel Creek

Winter is upon us..

It has been an epic long fall here in the Cascades, not to mention elsewhere, but it has  finally turned white... and it has done in brilliant style for sure.  I have been wandering aimlessly around for the last several weeks.  This is always a tough time of year for me, not a lot of work, too cold and dark for a lot of activities, and no snow.  I find myself shifting aimlessly and questioning whether my life is really moving in the right direction.  Fortunately for me, the snow starts falling and winter begins and those questions of direction seem to be washed away with my first turn.

I started this blog with high hopes.  But as you can see the last entry was from this summer, and my feeble attempt at a blog has sputtered and failed.  I am however, fulling planning on making a much more valid second attempt.  Even powering through the difficulties of a completely crashed hard drive and loss of all the pictures, articles, and music I have accumulated over the last year, I will make it happen.  So stay tuned, and it will be worth your while.